“Now, We Need Light And Happiness”: Dolce & Gabbana On Their “#DGLightTherapy” SS22 Menswear Show

For their first live show with an audience in nearly a year, Dolce & Gabbana thought a little light therapy would be in order. Their spring/summer 2022 men’s show emulated the impact of the luminarie light shows found in the South of Italy. They decked out their Milanese runway in the stunning artisanal light formations, lighting up a collection encrusted with crystals from start to finish. On the way, the designers revisited their own collections from the early 2000s, interpreting the embellished denim that ruled the era and proposing it to a contemporary youth obsessed with nostalgia. Hip-hop influences only fuelled those emotions, expressed in the timeless appeal of baggy jeans, white vests and black mesh tops. Alongside Dolce, Gabbana took a bow sporting acid-green hair, his most recent dye job following stints of dark blue, bleach blonde, purple, pink, and baby blue. Anders Christian Madsen spoke to him before the show.

How does it feel to be back in front of an audience?

Finally, there’s somebody to watch our show! The adrenaline of the fashion show is the best way to explain to the audience what we think. Digital is very difficult and it’s not the same thing. We love the human touch, watching people during the show, coming out for the finale.

Why is the collection called #DGLightTherapy?

Light is a good therapy for this moment. After a year and a half, we need to see light, joy and happiness in the eyes of people. That’s what we want.

Tell me about the set.

We covered the Metropol in the coloured lights from the South of Italy. In Italy, we use this for festivity. Lights are an expression of joy and aggregation. It’s a very Italian tradition. It’s a celebration of light, family and artisans. This is the most important message for us today.

When did you first experience the luminarie of South Italy?

I was 18 or 19. It was a religious festivity for the Virgin.

How did it make you feel?

Happiness. Enjoyment. Wow.

You filtered lights into the collection, too?

Yes, it’s very colourful, very sparkling. A reminder of the 2000s: a little bit sexy, sparkling, with Swarovski crystals and stones. Very joyful.

Did the pandemic put you in a reflective mood?

During lockdown, we had time to think about our lives, our attitude, about everything. For some reason, there are two different ways for Domenico and I now: one is very technological, and one is very artisanal. We work with both, but we’re close to the artisanal way: the homemade.

Referencing yourself in the early 2000s, is it nostalgia?

Nostalgia is a way of reminding yourself of something: our roots, our memories, our sentiments. Fashion is not just a piece of fabric. When we work, we work with a sentiment – with our hearts and with our brains. For Domenico and me, it’s our lives. Our collection is pieces of us. We are very sentimental.

Is it important to approach fashion with more emotion now?

For us, emotion is everything. This is why we’re happy to finally be doing a live fashion show. Because it’s emotional. It’s like reading a book or watching a movie. We feel like we’re starting something again.